Broad Peak summits
(K2Climb.net) “We had three more summits last night,” just reported FTA member Alan Arnette. “John Dowd, Mick Murphy and Marcus Dell all made the true summit of Broad Peak in somewhat difficult conditions.”
“The three left from Camp 4. Snow is very deep from Camp 4 to the Col and then lighter on the summit ridge - on the way to the true summit."
First Irishmen Broad Peak summiteers
"By working together they broke trail and reestablished the route that Ryan, JJ and the porters had previously put in. The weather has been intermittent with snow squalls and high winds but this team found a gap allowing them to scramble to the summit and back safely. As of this writing they are returning to the lower camps from Camp 4.”
“There were cheers in BC for all these summiteers as they are the first non-professionals to make the summit from any team in 2006. Also there were cheers for John and Mick being the first Irish to summit a Karakorum 8000m mountain in history.” Ed. Note: John and Mick are indeed the first Irishmen on top of Broad Peak – their first is not yet confirmed as far as other Karakorum 8000ers is concerned though.
Sights turning towards K2
“There is still time for the rest of the team climbing Broad Peak but it is clear everyone needs to work together to summit this year. The current plan is to establish the K2 Base Camp around July 12 and stop climbing Broad Peak then.”
John Dowd had joined FTA team only for Broad Peak. Mick Murphy and Canadian Marcus Dell plan to attempt K2 as well.
Dave Hancock’s Australian outfitter Field Touring Alpine has launched the first commercial expedition for both Broad Peak and K2. Although not exactly guided (each climber must be self-sufficient and decided on schedules), the team is fully supported.
The huge team consists of 25 international climbers, most of them fairly experienced in altitude and ranging from 23 to 62 years old. Some of them will attempt the double-header while others are only aiming for Broad. A few members will be climbing K2 without O2; those using supplementary oxygen be using Poisk for the climb. Climbing team leader is Jeff Justman.
The team will climb BP from the standard West Ridge route. Meanwhile, their altitude porters will fix lines and set the first camps on K2. Once acclimatized, the climbers will go for the Abruzzi Spur on K2. They are hopeful that they’ll need only a couple of climbs to C1 and C3 before a definitive summit bid.
FTA's team official list of members:
Jeff Justman - Leader K2-BP - Leader US
Ryan Waters - Asst Leader K2-BP - Asst. Leader US
Kurt Grimm K2-BP US
Mich Murphy K2-BP Ireland
Carl Drew K2-BP US
Matthew Gardiner K2-BP UK
Josette Valloton K2 only Switzerland
Nick Barclay K2-BP Australia
Wilco van Rooijen K2-BP Dutch
Joelle Bruphacher K2-BP Switzerland
Alan Arnette K2-BP US
Marcus Dell BP-K2 Canada
Gerard McDonnell K2-BP Ireland
Jan Van der Meer BP Dutch
John Roche BP Ireland
Ian de Bruyn BP South Africa/Australia
Diane Walker BP South Africa/Australia
Mark Sheen BP Australia
John Dowd BP Ireland
Michael Parker BP Australia
Con Collins BP Ireland.
Canadian Marcus Dell has climbed some of the highest and coldest peaks in North America, including Denali (Alaska) and Mt. Logan (Yukon Canada). He has also summited Ama Dablam (Nepal), Aconcagua (Argentina), Kilimanjaro (Tanzania), and many peaks in the British Columbia Coast Range.