Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
Broad Peak
Expedition 1957
Golden Jubilee



Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

Please note that our German News page has different articles.

Broad Peak SUMMIT - first of the Karakorum season!


(K2Climb.net) “On Sunday, June 25 at 10:27 AM, Ryan Waters, of the FTA team reached the true summit of Broad Peak, via the normal route, the West Ridge,” reported team member Alan Arnette. “They left Camp 4 at 2:30 AM and returned to C3 at 3:00 PM.”

“Team leader Jeff Justman (JJ) and high altitude porters Tagi, Mohammadad and Anizzi pushed through deep snow from C4 and along the summit ridge just behind Ryan. They picked up where the Austrian team turned around the previous day after experiencing deep snow and a fragile top crust that made trail breaking exhausting.”

“The rest of the FTA team is at various stages on the Hill with seven climbers moving rapidly up the mountain for a summit bid in a few days. This includes Wilco, Marcus, Joelle, Mick, Gerard, Con and John R. The weather continues to be amazing. I spoke with an older high altitude porter who said he had not seen such good weather in all his 32 years in the Karakorum.”

Dave Hancock’s Australian outfitter Field Touring Alpine has launched the first commercial expedition for both Broad Peak and K2. Although not exactly guided (each climber must be self-sufficient and decided on schedules), the team is fully supported.

The huge team consists of 25 international climbers, most of them fairly experienced in altitude and ranging from 23 to 62 years old. Some of them will attempt the double-header while others are only aiming for Broad. A few members will be climbing K2 without O2; those using supplementary oxygen be using Poisk for the climb. Climbing team leader is Jeff Justman.

The team will climb BP from the standard West Ridge route. Meanwhile, their altitude porters will fix lines and set the first camps on K2. Once acclimatized, the climbers will go for the Abruzzi Spur on K2. They are hopeful that they’ll need only a couple of climbs to C1 and C3 before a definitive summit bid.

FTA's team official list of members:

Jeff Justman - Leader K2-BP - Leader US
Ryan Waters - Asst Leader K2-BP - Asst. Leader US
Kurt Grimm K2-BP US
Mich Murphy K2-BP Ireland
Carl Drew K2-BP US
Matthew Gardiner K2-BP UK
Josette Valloton K2 only Switzerland
Nick Barclay K2-BP Australia
Wilco van Rooijen K2-BP Dutch
Joelle Bruphacher K2-BP Switzerland
Alan Arnette K2-BP US
Marcus Dell BP-K2 Canada
Gerard McDonnell K2-BP Ireland
Jan Van der Meer BP Dutch
John Roche BP Ireland
Ian de Bruyn BP South Africa/Australia
Diane Walker BP South Africa/Australia
Mark Sheen BP Australia
John Dowd BP Ireland
Michael Parker BP Australia
Con Collins BP Ireland


Autor: K2Climb.Net