Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
Broad Peak
Expedition 1957
Diaries
Golden Jubilee
News
 



Languages:

 News

Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

Please note that our German News page has different articles.

Broad Peak and the 1957 Austrian Karakoram Expedition

(17.06.2006)

Introduction

In 1957, a team of four Austrians — Marcus Schmuck, Hermann Buhl, Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger — made an ascent of Broad Peak (8047 m). This climb was remarkable for a number of reasons, mostly to do with style:

· It was accomplished without supplementary oxygen.
· They had no porters on the mountain and carried everything themselves.
· All four team members summited (a first for an 8000-metre peak).
· By reaching the summit, Hermann Buhl became the first person to make two first ascents of a mountain over 8000 metres.

Making this expedition all the more remarkable, Markus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller followed their ascent of Broad Peak with a flash ascent of a nearby mountain, Skil Brum (7360 m), which they climbed in pure alpine style. Starting from base camp at 4900 metres, they climbed to 6060 metres, where they camped. The following day they summited and then returned to their high camp. They descended the next morning. From base camp to base camp, the ascent of Skil Brum was done in 53 hours!

From all of the above, this 1957 expedition was a wonderful precursor of the new style that was to follow, as exemplified in the climbs of Messner and Habeler.

back


Autor: Bill Buxton, bill@billbuxton.com

Further information at: http://www.billbuxton.com/BroadPeakCAJ.pdf


 

 

Links
|
Contact
|
Mission
|
Disclaimer
|
Statistics