Broad Peak and the 1957 Austrian Karakoram Expedition
In 1957, a team of four Austrians — Marcus Schmuck, Hermann Buhl, Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger — made an ascent of Broad Peak (8047 m). This climb was remarkable for a number of reasons, mostly to do with style:
· It was accomplished without supplementary oxygen.
· They had no porters on the mountain and carried everything themselves.
· All four team members summited (a first for an 8000-metre peak).
· By reaching the summit, Hermann Buhl became the first person to make two first ascents of a mountain over 8000 metres.
Making this expedition all the more remarkable, Markus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller followed their ascent of Broad Peak with a flash ascent of a nearby mountain, Skil Brum (7360 m), which they climbed in pure alpine style. Starting from base camp at 4900 metres, they climbed to 6060 metres, where they camped. The following day they summited and then returned to their high camp. They descended the next morning. From base camp to base camp, the ascent of Skil Brum was done in 53 hours!
From all of the above, this 1957 expedition was a wonderful precursor of the new style that was to follow, as exemplified in the climbs of Messner and Habeler.
Autor: Bill Buxton, firstname.lastname@example.org
Further information at: http://www.billbuxton.com/BroadPeakCAJ.pdf