Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
Broad Peak
Expedition 1957
Golden Jubilee



Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

Please note that our German News page has different articles.




Lajos Kollár:

The organizer-leader of the expedition. He started climbing in 1972 mainly in the Tatras, The Alps and in the Caucasus. Later he led two Trans-Greenland Expedition .He organized and led the 2003 Hungarian Gasherbrum I-Ii Expedition where 9 climbers summated out of the 12 members including 3 women, whom were the first Hungarian females to step on an 8000er summit

Zsolt Erőss:

The technical leader of the expedition. He is the first Hungarian „Snow Leopard” (leader of many previous expeditions) and the first and only Hungarian summiter of Everest (2002). He also stan on the top of Gasherbrum II (2003) and climbed a new route to Gasherbrum I, but turned back 100 meters from the summit (2003).

László Mécs:

The technical leader of the successful Mount Everest (2001.) and K2 (2005.) expeditions, summited Broad Peak (2000) and Gasherbrum II (2003). He is a mountain climbing instructor.

Anita Ugyan:

After climbing in the Tatras, The Alps and the Caucasus, she was member of the Explorers Broad Peak expedition, and reached 7800 m with the Mount Everest expedition in 2001. Summiter of the Gasherbrum in 2003, she was the first Hungarian women above 8000 m (alongside Júlia Nedeczky and Katalin Csollány).

Szabolcs Szendrő:

Szabolcs is not only one of the most successful climbers of Hungary, but also well-known of his amazing photos. He climbed hard routes in The Alps and he was summiter of the Cho Oyu in 1990. He has lost one of his feet in a train accident.

Gábor Babcsán:

He is among the best Hungarian rockclimbers, already climbed 200 extreme alpine routes since 1978. His performance in the Mascara was the „Climb of the year 2001” in France.


13th April: 5 out of the 6-man-team left Budapest, to join Zsolt Erőss in Kathmandu who had already done some preparations for the expedition. They want to get to the top of Dhaulagiri, the seventh highest mountain on the world. This journey is the seventh step of the ’Hungarians on the world’s 8000ers’ project, with the aim, to get Hungarian climbers to the summit of the Earth’s 14 highest peaks.

15th April: The team is already in Kathmandu, but because of the political situation, they can not travel further. The roads are closed, the situation is near revolutionary. The temperature is comfortable, perfect for doing the remaining administration and collect information of other expeditions.

16th April: The situation is worse and worse… The King is not able to find compromise with the leaders of the local parties and thousands of people came out to the streets to demonstrate against the king. The Nepalese Army can handle the situation, but our opportunity to get to Pokhara is collapsing. The team should travel by helicopter but this is the last possibility because of the lack of founds.

17th April: The king has hung up the functioning of the parties. The maoists appeared, making the demonstrations more aggressive. There are fights between the army and the demonstrating people, even some death are pulished too! Despite all things, probably the team can leave Kathmandu when the road blockings finish.

18th April: It seems the blockade will finish nearly, because the people suffering starvation, and then the Hungarian expedition can leave the capital. A local sherpa, our cook will accompany them.

20th April: The members of the Dhaulagiri expedition had recieved a SMS from Dávid Klein, who is currently in Mount Everest Base Camp with Joby Ogwyn (his goal is to became the first Hungarian who climbs the Mount Everest without oxygen bottle), but there are some bad news: they had to turn back because of the extreme weather conditions.

23rd April: The team has left Kathmandu by plane and will travel forward by jeeps from Pokhara towards Beni. This means the journey will become more epensive as it was planned before. A sherpa leader told them, he would help them getting to the Base Camp all the way, so it seems to be solved.

25th April: The expeditors flown to Pokhara with the sherpas, but do not want to rest a lot, because they want to benefit from the quite peaceful days and leave the city as fast as they can. From Beni they would like to reach the base camp within 6-7 days, so they have to hurry up.

More news will follow!

Best regards,

Gáti Tamás


Budapest, Hungary


Autor: Gáti Tamás

Further information at: http://www.everestnews.com/2006expeditions/hungdh2006.htm