Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
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Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

Please note that our German News page has different articles.

“The Night of the First Ascent”

(14.04.2006)

“The Night of the First Ascent” - Broad Peak summiteers' club calling to huge anniversary bash

(K2Climb.net) 2007 will be the Year of Broad Peak - significantly the month of June, exactly 50 years after an Austrian team led by Markus Schmuck nailed the mountain’s first ascent. Austrian Gerfried Göschl will launch an expedition in the footsteps of the '57 Pioneers (check previous story in the links section) and a major Broad Peak party is now prepared in the heart of the Austrian Alps.

Host: Fritz Wintersteller's son

Göschl and his team will receive a cool send-off June 9, 2007, in an event called “The Night of the First Ascent,” which will take place in the Congress Centre of Salzburg, Austria. The event is organized by the crew of BroadPeak.org.

In fact, the founder of this BP-devoted internet portal is none other than son of Fritz Wintersteller - one of the four first summiteers, who turned a page in climbing history by achieving an 8000+ meters peak without supplementary O2 or high altitude porters.

Broad Peak Club - are you a member?

“We expect between 1000 and 1500 guests and over 100 Broad Peak Club members to celebrate the 50th anniversary," Fritz told ExplorersWeb.

“Broad Peak Club membership is for those who reached the main summit of Broad Peak on foot,” Wintersteller said. “There are 259 mountaineers who reached the main summit 8047m (or 8051m as measured later) according to our records. Sadly, 32 are no longer with us. We have the contacts of about 50% of all mountaineers and appreciate any help to find all of them.”

Members might increase this summer

All BP summiteers should contact the organization website. Moreover, the number of Broad Peak Club members could increase considerably: A large amount of expeditions are expected on the mountain this summer. Let’s just hope the teams are luckier this year than in 2005, when only Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov reached the main summit of Broad.

The June 9 "Night of the First Ascent" program includes some of the world's best mountaineers, historians, and authors of mountain literature as guest speakers. There will be slide- and multi-media shows, vintage films and new books, and a display of the original expedition gear.

Located at the head of the Baltoro Glacier, Pakistan, the local name of Broad Peak is Faichan Kangri. Once named K3 by British topographers, the current official height of its main summit is 8,051m. But according to maps from 1957, when the peak was first summited, the summit was measured to be 8,047meters high.

The first attempt was done by Karl M. Herligkoffer in 1954, from BP's SW side.

In 1957, an Austrian expedition came to Pakistan to climb this peak. It was led by Marcus Schmuck. Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl, who is considered one of the best known post-war Austrian climbers and the first climber to Summit Nanga Parbat.

The group began a reconnaissance of a ridge on the western face of the mountain. Consequently, they climbed a snow gully and erected three camps at 5800, 6400 and 6950 meters. While climbing, they made the best use of ropes which were fixed by the 1954 German expedition.

On May 29, all members of the expedition left Camp III for an assault on the summit. Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the Forepeak (8030 m) but fog and the late hour forced them to return to Camp III.

However, on June 9, 1957 Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller reached the summit together at 5.05pm. They were followed by the second team, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger - Diemberger reached the summit at 5.50pm and returned later to the peak together with Buhl.

All four men climbed the peak without using oxygen or high altitude porters. Having left their porters between 7 and 12 km away from BC, the climbers had to carry the loads to BC themselves. The only help they received was from Qader Saeed and two mail runners. The expedition also lacked BC support.

Broad Peak.org is an Internet platform devoted to inform the public about the expedition and the team members with authentic pictures, climbing diaries, and historical documents, as well as an official summit logbook. It also provides an overview over all later ascents and all climbers reaching the main summit are listed. It is a multi-lingual site, accredited by the Government of Pakistan, the OEAV, the Edelweiss Club Salzburg, and National and International Mountaineering Organizations.

Austrian Gerfried Göschl was one of only two climbers who achieved an 8000er double-header in spring 2005. The other was Finnish Veikka Gustafsson, summiting Cho Oyu and Annapurna.

First Gerfried led a team up Shisha Pangma: The entire group reached Shisha’s central summit without supplementary oxygen. Gerfried however, was the only one to proceed to the main summit (8027m), on May 3. Then he moved to Everest’s North side for a fast no O2 attempt. Bad weather kept him in BC for some time but he finally summited on June 1; once again alone.

Gerfried Göschl (32) was born in Styria, Austria. He is a member of Alpine Rescue Team Gesaeuse. He has summited Cho Oyu, Muztagh Ata (7546m), Aconcagua, G2, Shisha Pangma Main and Everest - all without O2.

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