Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
Broad Peak
Expedition 1957
Golden Jubilee



Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

Please note that our German News page has different articles.

Gerfried Göschl preparing for Broad Peak + K2 double-header


(K2Climb.net) Last year, Austrian Gerfried Göschl was the first climber to reach Shisha Pangma’s main summit. Then he achieved one of the few no O2 ascents on Everest.

After such as successful season, we expected it won't be long before Göschl is back in the mountains again. For now though, he's taking it easy and preparing for his next major goal in 2007: A Broad Peak + K2 double-header.

Celebrating Broad Peak

“In 2007 I’ll lead a large Austrian expedition on Broad Peak (8047m) to celebrate the 50th anniversary of its first climb,” Gerfried told ExplorersWeb.

“We want to walk in the footsteps of our Idols Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger. After summiting we will set our sights on K2 for a quick attempt.”

Austrian Gerfried Göschl was one of only two climbers who achieved an 8000er double-header in spring 2005. The other was Finnish Veikka Gustafsson, summiting Cho Oyu and Annapurna.

First Gerfried led a team up Shisha Pangma: The entire group reached Shisha’s central summit without supplementary oxygen. Gerfried however, was the only one to proceed to the main summit (8027m), on May 3. Then he moved to Everest’s North side for a fast no O2 attempt. Bad weather kept him in BC for some time but he finally summited on June 1; once again alone.

Gerfried Göschl (32) was born in Styria, Austria. He is a member of Alpine Rescue Team Gesaeuse. He has summited Cho Oyu, Muztagh Ata (7546m), Aconcagua, G2, Shisha Pangma Main and Everest - all without O2.

Located at the head of the Baltoro Glacier, Pakistan, the local name of Broad Peak is Faichan Kangri. Once named K3 by British topographers, the current official height of its main summit is 8,051m. But according to maps from 1957, when the peak was first summited, the summit was measured to be 8,047meters high.

The first attempt was done by Karl M. Herligkoffer in 1954, from BP's SW side.

In 1957, an Austrian expedition came to Pakistan to climb this peak. It was led by Marcus Schmuck. Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl, who is considered one of the best known post-war Austrian climbers and the first climber to Summit Nanga Parbat.

The group began a reconnaissance of a ridge on the western face of the mountain. Consequently, they climbed a snow gully and erected three camps at 5800, 6400 and 6950 meters. While climbing, they made the best use of ropes which were fixed by the 1954 German expedition.

On May 29, all members of the expedition left Camp III for an assault on the summit. Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the Forepeak (8030 m) but fog and the late hour forced them to return to Camp III.

However, on June 9, 1957 Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller reached the summit together at 5.05pm. They were followed by the second team, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger - Diemberger reached the summit at 5.50pm and returned later to the peak together with Buhl.

All four men climbed the peak without using oxygen or high altitude porters. Having left their porters between 7 and 12 km away from BC, the climbers had to carry the loads to BC themselves. The only help they received was from Qader Saeed and two mail runners. The expedition also lacked BC support.


Autor: MountEverest.net

Further information at: http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=1766