Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
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Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

Please note that our German News page has different articles.

Piotr Pustelnik & Himalayan Trilogy team

(29.03.2006)

(MountEverest.net) While other Himalayan climbers take it easy in Kathmandu and savor the approaching treks up to BC, Pustelnik and team can’t afford to waste a single minute. With Cho Oyu and Annapurna on their wish list this season, the Polish-American Trilogy expedition virtually had to make a run for Tibet.


“Hello once again,” reported Piotr Pustelnik. “On March 27 we reached Tingri and are currently acclimatizing at 4300-4400 m.”

The two Piotrs' race

"We have reached this altitude rather fast," he reports. "We felt it especially after a short run I made with Piotr Morawski.”

“We've seen Everest and Shisha Pangma: There is not that much snow, but it seems to us, that the winds are very high. There could still be winter conditions on the higher sections.”

BC all to themselves

Piotr and his team will be the first climbers to arrive this year in Cho Oyu’s BC. That has its advantages, but is not without its drawbacks.

“We will get the best possible place to settle in BC, but at the same time the task of fixing ropes on the glacier and on the route to C1 and C2 lies entirely on our shoulders,” Pustelnik said. “We hope some other teams show up soon, and help us out a bit. Otherwise the mood is great and everyone is healthy.”

Forced to retreat at the foresummit of BP last year after leading the way, breaking trail and fixing ropes in very bad conditions, Polish Piotr Pustelnik promised he would return to the peak. On the way down, he also led the rescue of Artur Hajzer.

Only Annapurna and Broad Peak have kept Pustelnik from achieving the 14 8000ers. Piotr is back this year for both of them. After climbing Cho Oyu to acclimatize, he will attempt the Polish route on Annapurna's East ridge. In early summer they will travel to Pakistan, aiming for a new route on Broad Peak.

His climbing partner will be fellow Polish Piotr Morawski, who already attempted Annapurna last year while on Pustelnik's team. Morawski went for Annapurna fresh from achieving the first winter climb of Shisha Pangma (teaming up with Simone Moro on January,14 2005).

Also on the team will be Americans Don Bowie and Peter Hamor. Bowie attempted Broad Peak at the same time Piotr did last year. Months later, he also volunteered to help people living in isolated mountain areas of Indian Kashmir who were severely affected by the October 8 earthquake.

The route the team will follow on Annapurna's East ridge was first climbed in 1988 by Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer, the man Pustelnik and the others rescued on Broad Peak last year.

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Autor: MountEverest.net

Further information at: http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=1756


 

 

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