Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
Broad Peak
Expedition 1957
Golden Jubilee



Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

Please note that our German News page has different articles.

Internet meeting room for Broad Peak's friends


(K2Climb.net) Planning on giving Broad Peak a try some day? Have you already been there and want to share your experience with other climbers? Would you like to know more on the peak’s history or get new facts or summit logs? Then check BroadPeak.org, a website done in the heart of Austrian Alps, and exclusively dedicated to the Pakistan 8000er.

A first climb with style

Broad Peak was first summited by an all-star Austrian team in 1957. Unlike many of the huge expeditions of those years, Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller summited the peak without supplementary O2 or high altitude porters. All four team members reached the top. Buhl also became the first climber to achieve two first ascents on 8000ers – following his epic summit on Nanga Parbat in 1953.

The feat set a milestone in mountaineering history. Nearly 50 years on, a handful of Salzburg climbers and researchers wanted to promote and celebrate this historic climb - so together they launched BroadPeak.org.

Great source of facts and summit log

The internet portal, launched last year, provides all facts on the first expeditions (including diaries, original pictures and historical documents). It also follows all Broad Peak expeditions since then, filing a database with all the climbers who have reached its main summit.

BroadPeak.org and its team is now asking for feedback from climbers all over the world. “Please let us know what you like and also what you don't like so we can improve our Internet platform,” they say.

“Ours is a scientific, multi-lingual Internet platform of international reputation, accredited by the Government of Pakistan, the OEAV, the Edelweiss Club Salzburg, and National and International Mountaineering Organizations,” the creators say. “It includes scientific research and statistics of renowned experts, historians, and journalists, in cooperation with Universities and the National and International Press and Media.”

Located at the head of the Baltoro Glacier, Pakistan, The local name of Broad Peak is Faichan Kangri. Once named K3 by British topographers, the current official height of its main summit is 8,051m. But according to maps from 1957, when the peak was first summited, the summit was measured as 8,047meters high.

First attempt was done by Karl M. Herligkoffer in 1954, from its SW side.

In 1957, an Austrian expedition came to Pakistan to climb this peak. It was led by Marcus Schmuck. Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl, who is considered one of the best known post-war Austrian climbers and the first climber to Summit Nanga Parbat.

The group began a reconnaissance of a ridge on the western face of the mountain. Consequently they climbed a snow gully and erected three camps at 5800, 6400 and 6950 meters. While climbing, they made the best use of ropes which were fixed by the 1954 German expedition.

On May 29, all members of the expedition left Camp III for an assault on the summit and Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the Forepeak 8030 meters but fog and the late hour forced them to return to Camp III.

However, on June 9, 1957 Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller reached the summit together at 5.05pm. They were followed by the second team, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger - Diemberger reached the summit at 5.50pm and returned later to the peak together with Buhl.

All four men climbed the peak without using oxygen and high altitude porters. Having left their porters between 7 and 12 km away from BC, the climbers had to carry the loads to BC themselves. The only help they received was from Qader Saeed and two mailrunners. The expedition also lacked BC support.

Nine Austrians have climbed five of the world's 14 highest mountains for the first time.


Autor: MountEverest.net

Further information at: http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=1680