Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
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Expedition 1957
Golden Jubilee



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Pakistan 2006 expedition list


(K2Climb.net) As the weeks go by, more and more teams from all over the world are lining up their climbing plans for summer 2006. Pakistan's Ministry of Tourism has just submitted a new draft of applications for this year's climbing teams - forwarded to us by Saltoro Summits.

At first glance, the list already reveals the first teams for K2, as well as other climbers attempting the difficult 7000ers of the Karakorum and adjacent valleys. There are also a few new entries on the list. A handful of teams are looking to attempt Nanga Parbat – or the Naked Goddess - whose charm is quickly spreading among climbers, attracting an increasing number of teams to her slopes every year.

Steve's application rejected: K6 in forbidden area

Some climbers have been forced to look for alternative plans though as in the case of Steve House and four other climbers. The American team hoped to climb K6, a massive mountain at Charakusa Valley. However, their application has been rejected by local authorities, since the peak is located in a restricted area.

For the moment, here are the latest entries applying for climbing permits:

Japanese and Koreans for big game

The Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club is launching an eight-member team for K2 (no route specified). Leader is Deriha Yoshitsugu. Another Japanese team (seven members, led by Fukuda Yasushi) plus a Korean expedition (five climbers plus leader Yu Jin Kyung), will go for Nanga Parbat.

Finally, a large team (12 members) from the Korean town of Donga are climbing Gasherbrum 2. The leader is Seok Ho Lee.

Besides the 8000+ peaks expeditions, there are two teams going for lesser, but highly difficult peaks:

The Bride and the Ogre

A Catalan (Spanish) team led by Jordi Boshi is attempting Chogolisa, the tricky yet beautifull mountain where Hermann Buhl met his death. Check out previous ExWeb series on Chogolisa’s dramatic story.

In addition, a Canadian 6-man team will try to succeed on Baitha Brakk, also known as The Ogre. Jeff Relph is the leader. Last year, two strong Spanish teams failed to reach the summit of the 7,280m mountain.

Edurne for Broad Peak – Benegas bros back to Latok I

Many other climbers are currently planning on climbing in Pakistan in summer too, although they have not applied for climbing permits yet. Such is the case of the Benegas brothers: Damian and Willie are ready to give Latok I a third try, and perhaps attempt The Ogre as well.

Spanish Edurne Pasabán plans on turning Broad Peak into her ninth 8000er. She will be climbing with a filming team from Al Filo de lo Imposible documentary series.

There is also a Russian team currently collecting funds to launch an expedition on K2’s Abruzzi Spur. This is a different team altogether from K2’s West face Russian expedition. The Abruzzi Spur team is said to be busy with logistics issues related to a possible attempt at opening a new route on the mighty face this summer.

Climbing season in the Pakistan mountains falls within the northern hemisphere’s summer. Teams for Nanga Parbat usually set off in May-June, while expeditions on K2 may reach the summit as late as September.

In addition to the expeditions listed, the big commercial expedition outfitters will soon finalize their Karakorum expedition teams. Most likely the Gasherbrums and Nanga Parbat will both have guided teams in 2006. Australian outfitter Field Touring Alpine confirmed a few weeks ago that they are launching a large team for the Broad Peak/K2 double-header.


Autor: K2Climb.net

Further information at: http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=1458