Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
Broad Peak
Expedition 1957
Golden Jubilee



Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

Please note that our German News page has different articles.

The Piolet d´Or 2006


Awarded by French Montagnes Magazine according to the decision of an international jury, its importance makes the Piolet d’Or (The Golden Ice Axe) something like the Oscars of Alpinism.

The first tentative list of Piolet d´Or nominations has been published: As the jury included Lafaille very late last year, this time there could be last minute changes as well.

The Golden Axe criteria sticks to “alpine” parameters and technical details: The candidates are most often small teams opening new routes on isolated peaks. Alpine style, new lines and solo climbs score high.

The nominees are:

Americans Steve House and Vince Anderson, for the new route opened on Nanga’s Rupal Face, in alpine- style.

Kazakhs Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov for the new route on Broad Peak´s SW face, in alpine style.

French P. Wagnon, Ch. Trommsdorf, and Y. Graziani for the first climb on Chomo Lonzo´s Central summit (Makalu area).

Swiss Ueli Steck for The Khumbu Express combination of solo climbs on Cholatse´s North face and Tawoche.

Swiss Robert Jasper and German Stefan Glowacz for a new route on Cerro Murallon, Patagonian Ice Cap.

Italians Ermanno Salvaterra, Alessandro Beltrami and Argentinean Rolando Garibotti for a new route on Cerro Torre in alpine style.

New president of the jury
More surprising are perhaps the new jury members. Last year´s president, Krzysztof Wielicki (14, 8000m peaks climbed and premier authority on winter climbing) has been replaced by Briton Stephen Venables - an alpine-style purist.