Simone Moro: From 8A to 8000+
(MountEverest.net) Simone Moro is deciding plans for Spring 2006. Looking back, 2005 was a pretty good year for the Italian climber, who made the first winter climb of Shisha Pangma with Piotr Morawski.
With the start of the Himalayan season right around the corner, he's already got his nose to the rock. Simone spent the last two weeks training hard in Osp, a rock climbing crag in Slovenia. “After a few attempts, I asended an 8a route on December 28th,” he told ExplorersWeb.
Rock climbing and altitude climbing are two different principles, requiring different skills and strategies. Simone is one of the cross-overs; he set his sights on Himalaya after technical climbs on lower peaks.
Rock, ice, and altitude
“Every year, I try to climb an 8000er, but also to ascend at least one 8a route on rock, and M9 on dry-tooling/mixed terrain. That’s what I did in 2005, and I hope to keep it up this year. Actually, I hope to be able to climb 8c on rock and M10/11 on ice/mixed.”
“Altitude climbers sometimes forget about rock and vertical ice climbing.” Not so, with Simone, who trains on a daily basis at a climbing wall he has installed at home. He also hits rock climbs and dry-tooling areas as often as he can.
Spring "undercover" project
“About high altitude projects, I am planning a cool expedition in Nepal this Spring season. For now, I am working on the details of the climb – I’ll let you know when everything is set up.”
Simone Moro, along with Piotr Morawski, accomplished the first winter climb on Shisha Pangma in the first weeks of 2005. The two climbers summited the peak on Friday January 14, 2005 at 1:15 pm (local) after a fast 5 hour summit push in very strong winds.
The climb was awarded among the Best of ExplorersWeb 2005. It was the first calendar winter ascent on a 8000er since 1988, and the first winter climb on Shisha Pangma.
Also in 2005, Simone attempted Batura II in Pakistan, and Patagonian Cerro Torre in the winter season.
Shisha was in fact Simone’s fifth winter climb: In addition to a tragic December attempt on Annapurna in 1997 where Boukreev died, Simone had successful climbs on Aconcagua and Cerro Mirador (new route in alpine style in 1993), and on Marble Wall - the northernmost and coldest 6000er in Central Asia - with Denis Urubko in 2001.
Simone Moro has summited Mount Everest (twice), Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma (winter), Lhotse (twice) and 5 peaks over 7000 meters. He has accomplished the first winter climb of Marble Wall 6400m (Tien Shan), a 24-hour climb on Fitz Roy’s West Face (Patagonia), and many other climbs around the world.