Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
Broad Peak
Expedition 1957
Golden Jubilee



Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

Please note that our German News page has different articles.

Broad Peak – K2 WorldClimb 2006


Acclimatizing on Broad Peak

They will climb Broad Peak (26,401 feet) by the West Ridge (standard route) and K2 (28,250 feet) via the Abruzzi Ridge. The team will climb K2 after acclimatizing on Broad peak. This has become a common approach in recent years. Dave Hancock, Principle of FTA, said “The climb will be managed and led by a professional climber with previous 8000m experience, but it is not a guided expedition. The undertaking is strictly a team effort, with the intention of getting the strongest climbers in the group to the highest camps. The expedition will be conducted in the classic 'siege style' manner, which we believe will offer the safest method of ascent taking into account acclimatization gained on Broad Peak.”

Being Realistic

He also made comments on being realistic “Trying to reach the summit of K2 is a massive undertaking; however as we have all seen in past seasons, if the weather co-operates, and a multitude of other factors fall into place on the day you need to be at Camp 4, it is achievable.”

While commercial, it will not be a traditional expedition. Each member is expected to be self sufficient on and off the mountain and assist in carrying group gear and fixing ropes.

An Experienced Team

Thus far they have put together a very experienced team with seven Everest veterans, one climber returning to K2 and multiple summiteers of Cho Oyu, Denali, Aconcagua, Gasherbrum and other 8000m peaks.

Jeff Justman (JJ) will be the Expedition Leader.

Justman’s high altitude experience includes a summit of Everest as well as multiple summits and expeditions to Denali, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Aconcagua, Cotapaxi, Chimborazo and more. Plus he has summited Rainier 118 times.

On the unique leadership requirements of the climb, JJ said “Personally as the "Leader" of the expedition it is my role to make sure all the systems are working. And that includes team members helping out where and when it's appropriate. My attitude will always be, "if I help someone else reach the summit not only are they successful, I'm successful".

The team will rendezvous in Pakistan on June 1, 2006. The expedition will be fitted with all new tents and stoves and several kilometers of fresh rope that will be strung by the team and the High Altitude Porters (H.A.P.) along the Abruzzi. Each climber on K2 will have one H.A.P. assigned to them and on Broad Peak one H.A.P. will climb with three to four climbers.

Helping a ravaged area of the world

The climbers will be donating money to relief efforts in parts of Pakistan devastated by the October earthquake. While the Baltoro area of the Karakorum where K2 and Broad Peak are located was spared; many schools, hospitals and entire villages were completely wiped out elsewhere. FTA will donate part of the expedition revenue to help rebuild schools in the area.

About Field Touring

Field Touring has specialized in Aconcagua and Karakorum expeditions for the past 15 years. They conducted climbs to Broad Peak in 2003, 2004 and 2005 making the summit 2003 and 2004. Also to Gasherbrum II in 2004. This will be their first K2 expedition. No expedition put any climbers on the summit of K2 in 2005 due to the worst snow year in memory.

The expedition is still open to climbers.

More information can be found at the FTA site


Autor: Alan Arnette, climbing@alanarnette.com

Further information at: http://www.alanarnette.com/alan/karakorum.htm