Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
Broad Peak
Expedition 1957
Golden Jubilee



Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

Please note that our German News page has different articles.

Broad Peak 8047m Conference in Toronto, Canada


On the basis of personal interviews and/or diaries of events from Marcus Schmuck, Hermann Buhl and Fritz Wintersteller, Richard Sale the author of the book "Broad Peak" will give a presentation to the North American climbers in Toronto on May 15, 2005. The presentation will also include a number of digital slides and the presence of Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller will obviously help in answering any queries raised by the audience.

Richard Sale will strike a comparison between 1957 and the later 8000m climbs. Come and listen to the difficulties encountered by the four Austrians as opposed to the others. How did the Broad Peak climb form the basis for later developments in climbing technology and logistic support. Also listen to the achievements of Hermann Buhl who was world's best climber at that time.

Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller will also be speaking on May 15, 2005. Richard Sale's book was published by Carreg Ltd. in the UK in 2004 by Carreg Ltd. For a review on this book please see Gripped a climbers' magazine April-May 2005 edition published from Canada Gripped Magazine

Every movement leading towards the ascent of Broad Peak in 1957, including a dangerous flight Rawalpindi-Skardu was an adventure. Marcus and Fritz are flying to Toronto from Salzburg, Austria and Richard from the UK. Qader Saeed, the expedition's Pakistani Liaison Officer, is organising this conference.

For more details and reservation of seats, please contact:

Qader Saeed
Tel +1-416 975 5379
Fax +1-416 975 5379


Autor: Qader Saeed, Qadersaeed60@aol.com