Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
Broad Peak
Expedition 1957
Golden Jubilee



Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

Please note that our German News page has different articles.

Broad Peak’s result: 2 out of 30


1.- 30 people (including us) were on their way to the summit at some point. About 18 of them touched the fore summit of Broad Peak late in the afternoon. None of them managed to reach the true summit.

2.- On the descent the tired climbers, many dehydrated, started to weaken. One Pole fell about 60 meters, breaking his leg. His team reached C3 about 4 a.m. A Slovak fell a reported 400 meters and was uninjured. A Czech fell 150 meters and suffered minor frost bite. One Italian suffered extensive frost bite on his hands and feet and was later evacuated from base camp. And finally an Italian, crawled into a crevasse somewhere around 7500 meters during the nighttime descent. In the morning, although just one hour and in full sight of C3, he was struck by a "need" to return to Broad Peak's col where he was certain he'd find refuge on the Chinese side of the mountain.

Tao and I spoke to him while we descended, thinking he had just begun climbing from C3. It wasn't until we reached C3 and met some other Italians, that we found out he was "missing," never having returned from the summit bid. His partner climbed up to him, at nearly 7700 meters, and convinced him to return to C3.

3.- A few days later, the delightful and determined Kazakhs, Serguey Samoilov and Dennis Urbuko, finally reached the main summit of Broad Peak, via a new and scary route they pioneered on the SW Face. This season, despite more than 60 climbers reaching Broad Peaks' base camp, only TWO climbers reached the summit.

4.- Just one climber, with Broad Peak summit ambitions remains: Don Bowie, our friend from California. He found food and lodging at K2's base camp after everyone else headed for home. If the weather improves he will give Broad Peak another attempt. (Don't worry Don's Mom, he is well fed and happy.)


Autor: Chris Warner

Further information at: http://www.earthtreksclimbing.com/