Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
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Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

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Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 – day 25

(28.07.2005)

Good Morning, this is Piotr Pustelnik from the BC under Broad Peak, Karakorum – Pakistan. Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 Expedition.

We decided to attack the summit when all weather forecasts indicated 3-4 days of good weather. We took this decision although we spent only 4 days on this mountain and we managed to put the fix ropes up to Camp 2. We also spent very little time on the altitude 6000 m, so our decision was pretty risky, but when you are here you must use these scarce period of good weather.

We spent 2 days in Camp 2, afterwards we had a very hard way to Camp 3 (the change of altitude was about 1000m) and than we attacked the summit. We started climbing at 4-5 a.m. The snow was deep and heavy, so we couldn’t move very fast. When we reached the pass there were about 20 other climbers and no one wanted to lead. So we started and we put the fix ropes up to the pass. It became really late – my partners were behind and I decided to go up with two Czechs. We put fix ropes in some steep parts between the pass and the Rocky Summit. We reached the Rocky Summit at 5 p.m. – normally it is about 40 minutes from the Main Summit, but with so much snow it was about 2 hours. I decided not to go to the Main Summit as it was too late and too risky and I returned to the pass. On the way back Artur Hajzer fell about 50 m on the fix ropes – luckily he managed to stop, but he broke his ankle. After a 3-days rescue action, with help of the members of other expedition, we took him down and he was taken to the hospital in Skardu. Than we decided to end the expedition. The weather forecasts do not expect another such long period of good weather, so there is no sense to go back up. The expedition was really quick and exhausting. It was also full of new experience, also the negative one. But the most important is that we saved the man. It was possible due to help of many people up there, so we want to thank them all. That is all for now, you will hear from me soon…I am not going to retire yet. Thank you all, good bye.

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Autor: Piotr Pustelnik


 

 

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