International team BP new route: Mario Merelli – No way!
“We couldn’t find a passage through the serac barrier before the wall,” reported Mario Merelli on Saturday, after a reconnaissance trip up to C1 on the new route the expedition had targeted. “It was dangerous, far too dangerous.”
Without a better option, the Italian and Kazakh climbers–all of them heavily loaded - started the long approach from their BC to Broad’s normal route yesterday. Today they reached C1 in good weather conditions. The team expects to set C2 and C3 in a few days.
Field Touring Alpine
FTA team reported during the weekend, right before the weather improved: “All the expeditions are off the mountain” said team leader Anibal Maturano. “So far only one team has been as high as camp 2. There is again very heavy snow and significant avalanche debris in the route to camp 1. Yesterday Berit, Sean and Craig tried to climb to camp 1 on the west ridge, but were turned back by yet another snow storm and debris coming down from the ridge. The forecasts announce better weather coming, so we just wait and hope, and if we can start fixing some rope in the next 2 days we will be glad for it.”
Autor: Mario Merelli / Field Touring Alpine