Simone joins the Poles to acclimatize before Broad Peak
(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) \"We are doing fine,\" reports Artur Hajzer to ExplorersWeb. \"Darek, Jacek and I are just back from fixing ropes up to 5800 m.\"
\"Wielicki and Robert Szymczak are bivouacking at 6000m, on the spot where we plan to set up C2.\" (Check full climbing report on HiMountain website tomorrow).
A visit after Christmas
\"The greatest news though is that Simone Moro is coming to join our expedition! He will use our fixed ropes and camps to acclimatize before moving to Broad Peak. We are looking forward to seeing him here - by December 27-28.\"
Flying from Italy on December 24, Italian Simone Moro is attempting Broad Peak solo this winter, and might give a try to K2 as well. He is a good friend of the Polish team members - in fact, when Simone climbed Shisha Pangma in winter (January, 2005) he was member of a Polish team led by Jan Szulc, currently on the Nanga team.
Krzysztof Wielicki leads the current Fifth Polish expedition to winter Nanga Parbat. The team members add up not only many years of experience - but also an amazing number of 8000ers summited - including winter first ascents:
Wielicki was the fifth climber to summit all 14 8000ers. Among his climbs; the first winter ascents of Everest, Lhotse and Kangchenjunga. Artur Hajzer, has 4, 8000ers summited and the first winter climb of Annapurna. Dariusz Zaluski, has 4, 8000ers summited and winter attempts on K2, Makalu, Nanga and Shisha. Jan Szulc led the team who first climbed Shisha Pangma in winter, and has a K2 winter attempt.
Krzysztof Tarasewicz, is summiteer on 3 8000ers; Jacek Jawien has been a member in K2 and Shisha winter expeditions. Only Przemyslaw Lozinski will experience an 8000+ meter peak for the first time.
North Face athlete Simone Moro, 38, has summited Mount Everest (three times), Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma (winter), Lhotse (twice) and 5 peaks over 7000 meters. He has the first winter climb of Marble Wall 6400m (Tien Shan), a 24-hour climb on Fitz Roy’s West Face (Patagonia), and many other climbs around the world. Simone and Piotr Morawski summited Shisha Pangma Friday January 14, 2005 at 1:15 pm (local) after a fast 5 hour climb in very strong winds. It was the first (real) winter ascent on a 8000er since 1988, and the first winter climb on Shisha Pangma.
The Shisha winter summit was in fact Simone’s fifth winter climb: To the tragic December attempt on Annapurna in 1997 when Boukreev died, Simone had successful climbs on Aconcagua and Cerro Mirador (new route in alpine style in 1993), and on Marble Wall - the northernmost and coldest 6000er in Central Asia - with Denis Urubko in 2001.
Polish climbers have all the first winter ascents on Himalayan 8000ers, most achieved in the eighties. All their ascents took place in January and February - The only “earlier” first winter summit achieved by a Polish climber back then, took place on December 31, 1988 on Lhotse. The climber; Krzysztof Wielicki.
17 years went by before a new first winter ascent was a fact: On January 14, 2005, Polish Piotr Morawski and Italian Simone Moro summited Shisha Pangma. The expedition leader was Jan Szulc (current member of the Nanga PArbat winter expedition).
The latest attempt for a first winter ascent on a 8000er was done last year by Jean-Christophe Lafaille. Lafaille attempted Makalu solo, but disappeared on his summit push, apparently without reaching the summit.
None of the Pakistan’s 8000ers (K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, GI, and GII) have been summited in winter. In Nepal, only Makalu still remains unclimbed in winter. This year, Pakistan’s government has reduced the winter climbing fee to a nominal 5%.
Further information at: http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?news=15404