14, 8000ers hard facts: Tables!
(MountEverest.net) Judging from emails to ExplorersWeb - yesterday's story about the next 14, 8000er knights was popular. A couple of mails brought to light two corrections: Martini Sergio's Lhotse summit is undisputed (he came back and climbed it again to make sure), instead - the Italian climber about whom there is a dispute is Fausto De Stefani who summitted Lhotse together Sergio Martini the first time - bad weather and whiteout made that summit uncertain however. The second correction is of course that Ivan Vallejo has 12, not 11 big ones under his belt. With that, ExplorersWeb is releasing the final, updated tables for you to enjoy!
Story corrected on November 24, 2006 8:30 am. Finnish Veikka Gustafsson has not summited Broad Peak, as we had previously filed on AdventureStats. Veikka attempted the mountain back in 1997 together with American Ed Viesturs, but they turned back at the so-called rocky summit. “On the summit day of Broad Peak we stopped just 150’ away from the true highest point,” Viesturs reported back then. “The simple traverse to the top was threatened by severely unstable snow. It was early in the morning and we felt quite strong, but the risk was too great to continue simply to gain a few more feet in altitude.” Ed would return to Broad Peak and finally reached the true summit on July 15, 2003 together with Jean Christophe Lafaille.
As for Veikka, he still has Broad Peak and both Gasherbrums to go, in order to complete the 14x8000ers quest.
At this point, only 12 men and no woman have summited all 14 8000ers in the world. Italian Reinhold Messner was first with the summit of Lhotse in 1986; the latest to achieve the feat was American Ed Viesturs, on Annapurna. Only 5 men made it without O2: Messner, Viesturs, Swiss Erhard Loretan, and Spaniards Juan Oiarzabal and Alberto Iñurategi. Italian Fausto de Stefani and British Alan Hinkes claim they’re already done, although one of their reported summits is not accepted by the climbing community.
Seven climbers are on number 13: Swiss mountain guide Norbert Joos is closest to the next 14, 8000ers completion, with only Everest left to go next spring. Second in line is Italian Silvio Mondinelli, who has only Broad Peak to go - possibly next summer. Polish Piotr Pustelnik said earlier this year he will never again attempt the only peak he’s got left: Annapurna - which already killed two other 8000er knights - Anatoly Boukreev and Italian Christian Kuntner (on his last 8000er). Abele Blanc returned to Annapurna this fall, but a family tragedy forced him back to Italy. It is unclear if he will ever return to Anna - his last 8000er.
As for 12, 8000ers summited: Russian Serguey Bogomolov and Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo have two peaks left. Extreme climber and skier Italian Hans Kammerlander who also summited 12th 8000ers, has now shifted focus to new alpine-style routes on lesser peaks.
There is no information on Tibetan climbers Cering Doje and Bianba Zaxi – whose team was caught in a landslide last year when they were approaching the Gasherbrums. Their mate Rena (also with 12 8000ers summited) died and the survivors were injured, although it's not clear how badly.
As for 11, 8000ers summited, Australian Andrew Lock, Spanish Iñaki Ochoa, Finnish Viekka Gustafsson, and German Ralf Dujmovits, all with 11 8000ers summited, may well eventually join the club of Himalayan Champions. Ralf is also Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner's partner, she in turn leading the female quest with nine 8000ers summited.
Finally, Nepalese Serap Jangbu Sherpa has summited 9 out of the 14 main 8000ers... three of them only this year, including an Everest traverse! Serap has also summited Cho Oyu twice, Lhotse twice, and K2 twice. Usually working for Korean expeditions, he is decided to become the first Sherpa and first Himalayan native to climb them all.