Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
Broad Peak
Expedition 1957
Golden Jubilee



Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

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Final Report of Pakistan 2006 Mountaineering Expeditions


Here goes the final season's report courtesy of Karrar Haidri and Mr. Saad Tariq Siddiqi, Secretary of Alpine Club Pakistan.

8 fatalities

Pakistan mountains have kept 8 climbers this season - all except one - on the 8000+ peaks. Four died on K2, one on Broad Peak, two on Nanga Parbat and one on Spantik. On K2, an avalanche swept away four Russian climbers. On Nanga, one climber was caught in a storm on descent and another became lost between camp 2 and 3. On Broad Peak, a young climber died of exposure on descent from the summit, and on Spantik a lady climber also died of exposure on descent from summit.

Half of all expeditions successful; but only on a third of the peaks

91 applications for climbing permits were filed for the 2006 Pakistan summer season. 78 applicants were granted climbing permits, including 10 applicants obtaining permits to climb 2 peaks each. 10 expeditions were rejected permits to climb in the Hindu Kush Range (due to itsproximity to the troubled Afghanistan border) and peaks situated close to the Siachen Glacier war zone. 3 expeditions withdrew their applications.

Out of 88 expeditions attempting 22 peaks, 40 expeditions have succeeded in putting 199 climbers on the summit of 8 Peaks.

Golden Jubilee of Gasherbrum 2 (8035 m)

2006 was celebrated as the Golden Jubilee of the First Ascent of Gasherbrum II; climbed for the first time 50 years back on 8th July 1956 by Austrian climbers Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch and Hars Willenpart.

This year, 19 climbers out of a 25 member Austrian team led by Evald Putz and Josef Hinding again placed their national flag on the summit of G2 between July 26-31. All summiteers were awarded certificates by Alpine Club of Pakistan and commemorative shields by Hunza Guides Pakistan; presented to the climbers by Mr. Saad Tariq Siddiqi.

Overall 21 Expeditions tried their luck on G2, out of which 18 expeditions were successful in putting 126 members on the summit. Only 3 Expeditions returned un-successful.

Choghori K2 (8611 m)

7 expeditions tried their luck on K2 (Choghori) this year but only two of them, one Italian and one Japanese were able to put 2 members each on top of K2. An Italian husband-and-wife couple summited without oxygen, making the woman the only living female K2 summiteer to do so. The Japanese mountaineers included a young girl (23) and her male climbing mate who became the youngest K2 summiteer at the age of 21. 4 Russian climbers perished in avalanche.

Broad Peak (8047 m)

14 Expeditions were granted permission to climb Broad Peak out of which 6 have been successful in putting their 21 members on the summit. 8 Expeditions have returned without success. The peak claimed an Austrian climber.

Gasherbrum I (8068 m)

7 expeditions tried but only 3 succeeded in putting a total of 9 members on the summit, including 3 Pakistani climbers.

Nanga Parbat (8125 m)

6 expeditions attempted “The Killer Mountain” which unfortunately stood to its reputation and took the lives of two strong climbers this season. 3 expeditions returned successful in putting a total of 4 climbers on top of Nanga Parbat.

Spantik (7020 m)

8 expeditions tried Spantik and 6 made it putting 30 climbers on the summit. A female climber perished on the peak.

Latok-III (6940 m)

1 expedition (Spain) was launched on Latok III; and both members reached the summit.

Latok-II (7108 m)

1 expedition (US) came to climb the peak and put all 3 members on the summit.

Summit no-go's

Expeditions to all other peaks; i.e. Gasherbrum 4, Latok I, Kunyang Chish, Batura 2, Bantha Brak, Lugpar Sar, Masherbrum, K7, Shisper, Diran, Passu, Raka Poshi, Ogre and Chogolisa failed to summit.

Brief tabulated account of expeditions

State of Expeditions on Various Peaks (Peak/No. of Expeditions/No. of Successful Exp/No. of Summiteers):

1. K-2 Choghori 07 02 04
2. Nanga Parbat 06 03 04
3. Broad Peak 14 06 21
4. Gasherbrum-I 07 03 09
5. Gasherbrum-II 21 18 126
6. Spantik 08 06 30
7. Latok-III 01 01 02
8. Latok-II 01 01 03
9. Gasherbrum-IV 02 -- --
10. Latok-I 02 -- --
11. Kunyang Chish 03 -- --
12. Batura-II 01 -- --
13. Baintha Brak 01 -- --
14. Lupghar Sar 01 -- --
15. Masherbrum 01 -- --
16. K-7 02 -- --
17. Shisper 01 -- --
18. Diran 02 -- --
19. Passu 02 -- --
20. Raka Poshi 01 -- --
21. Ogre 01 -- --
22. Chogolisa 03 -- --
Total 88 40 199


Autor: Alpine Club Pakistan

Further information at: http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?news=15175