Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
Broad Peak
Expedition 1957
Golden Jubilee



Broad Peak 8047m Broad Peak 8047m news and upcoming events. Meet the team members of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and get the latest news on Broad Peak.

Please note that our German News page has different articles.


Broad Peak special: Interview with Piotr Pustelnik

ExWeb Broad Peak special: Interview with Piotr Pustelnik, "be very careful and stick together!"



Read News Articles by Click on Headline

Read the full text and see pictures of our news articles by click on the headline.



Final Report of Pakistan 2007 Mountaineering Expeditions

In 2007, Broad Peak had the most summits (77) followed by Spantik (44) and K2 (29). Nanga Parbat and the Gasherbrums shared 48 summits. 5 climbers perished; two on K2, one on G1 and two on G2.



Boskoff, Christine J. (Feld)

Christine Joyce Boskoff, age 39, of Norwood, Colorado, died on November 14, 2006, the victim of an avalanche on Genyen Peak in the Sichuan Province of China. Christine was born in Appleton on September 7, 1967, to Robin and Joyce (Manthey) Feld. She graduated from UW-Milwaukee as an Electrical Engineer and worked in the Airlift Simulation Department at Lockheed Aeronautical Systems Company in Marietta, Georgia. Christine married Keith Boskoff in Atlanta, Georgia, on September 24, 1994. She was the owner of Mountain Madness Inc., a mountaineering travel service, Adventure Guide Travel Service and Mountaineering, as well as a school for mountain and rock climbing located in Seattle, Washington.



Reversion on 7600 m

Tonight 2 o´clock Gerfried Göschl must abandon his second attempt to reach K2 summit. “We are only two by two. To toe the line is too hard. We must turn back” Gerfried told via satellite telephone Ralf Dujmovits, who was waiting in basecamp for his wife Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. She also must abandon her ascent. Gerfried and his comrades will descent to basecamp during the day.



Night of decision

The following night will show, if Gerfried Göschl an his team can reach the summit of K2 during this expedition. Kilian Volken, Günter Unterberger, Ronald Newerkla and Gerfried reached camp III in height of 7350 metres this afternoon. Because the stage to camp III was very hard, Gerfried and the other climbers decided to stay this afternoon at camp III. Then, tonight at 11 o´clock the climbers start the stage to K2-summit, which is possible in a long distance march of 15 hours, provided that the snow and weather conditions are fair enough. “I´m feeling o.k.. I can see a trail up to camp IV. Maybe we can use the spoor and conserve energy for the long distance to the summit” Gerfried told his life companion Heike Grünwald via satellite telephone in the afternoon. For sure - those who stay at home will root – for the summit – above all for a safe return of the climbers!



Gerfried Goeschl & team SUMMIT Broad Peak

(K2Climb.net/Madrid) Gerfried Goeschl has just summited Broad Peak, after climbing in reportedly difficult conditions for over 12 hours since his team left C3. The Wenzl brothers, Kilian Volken, Lukas Furtenbach and Wolfgang Kölbinger followed shortly afterwards - and further members of the 15-men strong team could be topping-out as well today.



Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio Broad Peak Summit report

We reached the summit of Broad Peak!! Two years ago on the same date I was on the summit of Nanga Parbat; July 20 is full of meanings to me. We are already at base camp and when we see the impressive dimension of this mountain we see it with humbleness, thankfulness and satisfaction.



More news on Broad Peak summits

(K2Climb.net) Nearly 40 climbers summited Broad Peak yesterday, in spite of high winds, according to teams on the spot.



Silvio Mondinelli summits Broad Peak, his 14th 8000m peak

News flash: at circa 12.30 local time Silvio Mondinelli reached the summit of Broad Peak (8047m), the final summit missing from the magic 14 highest mountains in the world.



Summits on Broad Peak

(K2Climb.net/Madrid) A still unconfirmed number of climbers have summited Broad Peak today in spite of loads of snow and high winds on the upper sections – among them is Silvio ‘Gnaro’ Mondinelli, who has bagged his 14th 8000er. Carlos Pauner has reportedly topped-out as well.



Newsflash: Amical team members SUMMIT Broad Peak

Austrians Julia Walser and Reinhard Köfler, German Ernst-Robert Zauner and expedition leader Andreas Bucher (also from Austria), summited Broad Peak already last Sunday!



Broad Peak and the 1957 Austrian Karakoram Expedition

Aftermath to: Broad Peak and the 1957 Austrian Karakoram Expedition - In the 2006 issue of the Canadian Alpine Journal, I published an extended article on the first ascent of Broad Peak, an outstanding climb that was undertaken by a team of four Austrian climbers, Markus Schmuck, the leader, Fritz Wintersteller, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger. The climb was outstanding in that it was the first 8,000 metre peak to be climbed without the help of porters, with no supplemental oxygen and where all members of the team summitted. It was also time that someone (Hermann Buhl) made the first ascent of a second 8,000 metre peak. The catalyst for my article was Richard Sale's book on the climb. While Sale's book drew attention to this too neglected feat of mountaineering, it also stirred up more than a little controversy. Having met Sale, Wintersteller, Schmuck's two sons, and the expedition's sirdar, Qader Saeed at the Banff Mountain Festival, I decided to try and understand what the controversy was all about, and write as objective an account as I could of the climb. In so doing, I had contact with all of those mentioned above, and shared drafts of the manuscript with them as I progressed, in order that they could provide comments and corrections. My rule was that I would not write anything that I could not support with documentation. Diemberger was not happy with all that I wrote, largely because I would not make some of the changes that he wanted. However, I did make changes on points that I felt were either unimportant, or where he made a good point. Unfortunately, as we shall see, a couple of these changes did not make it into the version printed. This was too bad, but he carries some responsibility for this, due to the length of time that he took in writing, despite knowing that the publication deadline was looming. I did want the final verson of the article to be available, however. Consequently, that is the version that is on my web site. Not happy with this, as is his right, Diemberger wrote a letter to the Canadian Alpine Journal, which was published, along with some comments from the journal editor, on page 163 of the 2007 edition.



International Broad Peak / K2 expedition

International Broad Peak / K2 expedition: Together we have already climbed 21 8000m-summits. We are from 7 nations.



Ralf’s and Hirotaka’s Amical team summit Manaslu

10:03 am EST May 21, 2007 (MountEverest.net) On a second summit push after excess of snow thwarted a previous attempt, Ralf’s Dujmovits Amical team reached the top of Manaslu on Saturday, in good weather conditions. This is Ralf’12th 8,000er and Hirotaka’s 9th.



Broad Peak winter update

Broad Peak winter update, "we can honestly say that we truly did our best" (MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) "We tried the impossible - to reach Broad Peak summit." Back in BC, Simone has updated details about his final attempt to make it.



Best of ExplorersWeb 2006 Awards

Best of ExplorersWeb 2006 Awards: Denis Urubko & Serguey Samoilov - new route on Manaslu. Last year, Denis and Serguey had been awarded the International Piolet d'Or for a new route they opened on Broad Peak’s SW face. That axe however went to American Steve House and Vince Anderson, a decision somewhat stirring the international climbing community:



Best of ExplorersWeb 2006 Awards

Best of ExplorersWeb 2006 Awards: Nives Meroi & Romano Benet - K2. She made it into the 'climber's hall of fame' in 2003 by bagging the summits of GI, GII and Broad Peak in a mere 20 days.



Adventurers Risk Lives to Benefit At-Risk Children

In January 2006, Drew developed Climbing For A Cause (http://www.climbingforacause.org/), which is dedicated to the development of at-risk teens and youth charities through adventure-based events, programs, and films. Their vision for 2006 was to climb two Pakistani mountains -- K2 (28,240 feet) and Broad Peak (26,414 feet) -- and produce a documentary, Daring to Dream, about the climb. The proceeds from the documentary along with corporate and private donations would then be used to benefit the four charities Climbing For A Cause represented: World Vision, Communities In Schools, the Front Row Foundation, and Locks of Love.



Simone joins the Poles to acclimatize before Broad Peak

\"The greatest news though is that Simone Moro is coming to join our expedition! He will use our fixed ropes and camps to acclimatize before moving to Broad Peak. We are looking forward to seeing him here - by December 27-28.\"



Simone Moro on T-19 countdown for Karakorum's bitter winter

He will attempt Broad Peak this winter, alone. The North Face Baltoro Winter Expedition will start on December 24, well in winter time. Simone has also applied for a permit to climb K2 - but he will hold his final decision until he is done with Broad.



Markus Kronthaler's brother to bring back his body from BP

“I don’t just want to bring by brother down – I want to change the ethical principles in high altitude climbing."



Home Counties to Himalayas

Nineteen years after Julie Tullis died on K2, an audio diary she'd made - and lost - in the Himalayas was found, unscathed. Now her family has made its own as they visit the mountain that claimed her life.



Female Mountaineer Will Not Be Denied

“I will go to the mountain no matter what it takes. I’m prepared to sell even my house.” She says, “After succeeding in this expedition, I will also challenge Broad Peak (8,047 meters) and K2 (8,611 meters) with a group of female climbers.”



Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki

The golden decade of Polish Himalayan mountaineering, besides the unquestionable personal accomplishments of Jurek Kukuczka, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Wojtek Kurtyka and others, also saw winter achievements that were a team rather than individual success. It was particularly noticeable during the winter expeditions how the whole team worked for the result.



Simone Moro solo for WINTER Broad Peak - and K2?

The only non-Polish climber to have bagged a virgin winter 8000+ summit; Simone Moro wants more. And with permits virtually free for Karakorum winter climbs - that's where Simone is headed, alone.



14, 8000ers hard facts: Tables!

Judging from emails to ExplorersWeb - yesterday's story about the next 14, 8000er knights was popular. A couple of mails brought to light two corrections: Martini Sergio's Lhotse summit is undisputed (he came back and climbed it again to make sure), instead - the Italian climber about whom there is a dispute is Fausto De Stefani who summitted Lhotse together Sergio Martini the first time - bad weather and whiteout made that summit uncertain however. The second correction is of course that Ivan Vallejo has 12, not 11 big ones under his belt. With that, ExplorersWeb is releasing the final, updated tables for you to enjoy!



14x8000ers quest: Norbert Joos the firmest candidate to join

14x8000ers quest: Norbert Joos the firmest candidate to join the club



Piotr Pustelnik's final Broad Peak debrief

Piotr Pustelnik's final debrief: “We have to decide who we want to be” It's hard to believe, but after 16 years in the Himalayas, a series of amazing climbs and endless suffering, Polish Piotr Pustelnik says he has finally surrendered to Annapurna. “This mountain, which I tried to conquer for the third time, sucked up all my climbing skills, my humanity,” Piotr said, before turning back upwards for the last time - to climb his 8000er no 13: Broad Peak.



"Everest: Beyond the limit" airs Tuesday

The most shameful act in the history of mountaineering: "Everest: Beyond the limit" airs Tuesday. ExplorersWeb estimates the Himex coorporation sales at around USD 10 million - probably the largest in Everest history.



Marveling at Korean Climber’s Feats

Oh Hee-jun (36, The North Face) climbed four 8,000m-high summits in a row, starting with Mt. Everest (8,850m), the highest mountain in the world. Even Park Young-seok (43, director of Goldwin Korea), the first one to succeed in the mountaineering challenge known as the “Grand Slam” (climbing the 14 peaks of the Himalayas, the seven summits on each continent and the three most famous summits, including Mt. Everest) was speechless at Oh’s feat.



High-altitude adventurer got his start in the Midwest

Ed Viesturs was 16 when he and a friend would drive the 120 miles north from the flatland of Rockford, Ill., to Devil's Lake State Park, 2 miles south of Baraboo.



Ang Dorje Sherpa is one of the best climbers you never heard

Ang Dorje, in Calgary recently to receive a recognition award from the Sir Edmund Hillary Foundation, has summited Mount Everest 11 times since 1992, and climbed three Himalayan peaks taller than 8,000 metres: G2 (1997), Broad Peak (1995) and Cho Oyu (seven times).



Final Report of Pakistan 2006 Mountaineering Expeditions

Season's end: Final Report of Pakistan 2006 Mountaineering Expeditions. Pakistan's 2006 summer climbing season has finally ended with the successful return of the American Latok II Expedition led by Steve Swenson; all three climbers summited. In all 199 mountaineers of 40 Expeditions made the summit of 8 mountains.



Breaking news: Mondinelli SUMMITS Annapurna!

This is Gnaro’s 13th 8000er. Only this year he has summited Shisha Pangma Main, Lhotse and Annapurna. Next and last in his 14x8000er quest is Broad Peak, in Pakistan.



ROYALTIES for Peaks in Pakistan

We feel great pleasure in forwarding the notification of the Govt. of Pakistan issued today announcing the following major concessions and incentives.



Carlos Pauner: Climbers saving lives

Spaniard Carlos Pauner and a small team of friends reached Broad’s BC and jetted up to set high camps and acclimatize before the spell of bad weather arrived.



Markus Kronthaler lost on Broad Peak

Austrian Markus Kronthaler died of exhaustion on the upper slopes of Broad Peak. Marcus and team mate Sepp Bachmair set off from C3 towards the summit on Thursday. However, they only managed to reach the foresummit and bivouacked there on Friday night. They reportedly continued to the main summit early Saturday, but got too exhausted to reach C3 on descent, according to BroadPeak.org.



mBank Lotto Himalayan Trilogy: Summit!

Saturday Piotr Pustelnik, Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor did an unexpected summit push on BP normal route. Although just planning to acclimatize, the three Peters decided to take advantage of good weather, and despite Pustelnik having no suitable high-altitude boots they left on Friday, July 8 at 2:00 am. From C3, at 7200m.



Broad Peak summitted - one climber dead

July 8th Piotr Pustelnik, Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor did a summit bid to Broad Peak main summit. They started from C3 on 7200m. On the col, on 7800m, they found a Austrian climber in bad condition (exhausted).Piot Morawski helped him down to C3. On the summit ridge Piotr and Peter found a second climber, but he was already dead. They continued to the summit. On 2 pm. local time Piotr Pustelnik and Peter Hamor reached the main summit of Broad Peak (8047m). Now they are in C3 . Piotr Morawski will try to climb the summit today one more time. Kinga Baranowska and Andrzej Rusowicz stay in C3 today.



Broad Peak - further summits: Wilco and Gerrard

(K2Climb.net) “Hey everyone this is Ryan waters calling from sunny k2 base camp,” reported FTA’s team leader. “Some news from Broad Peak for our team: Wilco van Rooijen and Gerrard McDonnell both summited on July 6 , late afternoon in deep snow conditions. They are now safely back down towards camp 3 and descending down the mountain.”



Broad Peak summits

Broad Peak summits: Irish John and Mick plus Marcus Dell on top in worsening weather (K2Climb.net) “We had three more summits last night,” just reported FTA member Alan Arnette. “John Dowd, Mick Murphy and Marcus Dell all made the true summit of Broad Peak in somewhat difficult conditions.”



Broad Peak SUMMIT - first of the Karakorum season!

(K2Climb.net) “On Sunday, June 25 at 10:27 AM, Ryan Waters, of the FTA team reached the true summit of Broad Peak, via the normal route, the West Ridge,” reported team member Alan Arnette. “They left Camp 4 at 2:30 AM and returned to C3 at 3:00 PM.”



ExWeb special: 50 years of silence

Lino Lacedelli confess the truth about K2 conquest and Walter Bonatti, part 1



Early birds on Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak

(K2Climb.net) The early birds on Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak are working together to break trail and make their way up to higher camps before the crowds arrive. Small teams on Nanga - currently overloaded with snow - are happy to have the extra help, while the 'monster' teams descending on Broad are getting a warmer welcome than they expected.



K2 2006: Return of the Irishmen

(K2Climb.net) “I am now on my way to Skardu, the starting point of K2’s BC approaching trek,” Irish Banjo Bannon wrote to ExplorersWeb yesterday. “I’ve joined an international team. I am currently traveling with Polish climber Jacek Teler. Once on the Baltoro I’ll meet up with my Irish team mates: Mick Murphy and Ger Mc Donald, who have just arrived at Broad Peak Base camp.”



Broad Peak and the 1957 Austrian Karakoram Expedition

Buxton, William (2006). Broad Peak and the 1957 Austrian Karakoram Expedition. Canadian Alpine Journal, 89, 176-183.



Alan Arnette: This is huge! K2 and Broad's first pics.

(K2Climb.net) American Alan Arnette, member of Field Touring Alpine team, had a tough start to his Broad Peak/K2 expedition – a bad stomach bug kept him in his tent fever and unable to keep any food down for days. Cold and persistent rain didn’t help either. But when he got to Concordia, the glacier-junction where the Karakorum giants reign, Alan suddenly forgot his weakness.



Wilco van Rooijen's Chogori lesson - once bitten, twice shy

(K2Climb.net) After successfully reaching both the North Pole in 1997, the South Pole from Patriot Hills in 2000, and Everest without supplemental O2 in 2004, Dutch Wilco van Rooijen is now on his way to the Karakorum range for the highest possible double-header: Broad Peak and K2.



Nives Meroi: Between between Dhaulagiri and K2

Nives Meroi was born in Bergamo in September, 1961. She has summited Nanga Parbat, Cho Oyu, GII, GI, Broad Peak, Lhotse, and now Dhaulagiri. She also reached Shisha Pangma’s Central Summit. Nives has attempted K2 twice (1994 and 2003) through the North side and Everest in 1999. She typically travels light, climbing alpine-style, without oxygen or high-altitude porters.



Gasherbrum II-Broad Peak 2006

Gasherbrum II-Broad Peak 2006: Dutch team arrives in Pakistan today. (K2Climb.net) The Dutch Karakoram Expedition's members departed the Netherlands yesterday for Islamabad. They are going for a double header this season: GII and Broad Peak.



Patagonia mountain guides for a Broad Peak Argentinean first

(K2Climb.net) Five Argentinean mountain guides from El Calafate are changing the Patagonian winter for the Karakorum summer. Team leader Marcos Frischknecht (39), Ramiro Calvo (31), Leonardo Proverbio (25), Luciano Fiorenza (27), and Jose Pera (30) will depart Buenos Aires on Sunday, aiming for a first Argentinean ascent on Broad Peak, according to La Nacion.



ExWeb Interview with Carlos Pauner

ExWeb Interview with Carlos Pauner: Helping a fellow climber is a personal decision. Carlos Pauner was born in Jaca (northern Spain) in 1964. He has already summited K2, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Cho Oyu, G1, and Nanga Parbat. This spring he attempted Dhaulagiri. Next goal is a Karakorum double-header: Broad Peak and GII.



Because it's there

AUSTRALIAN mountaineer Roddy Mackenzie will never forget September 10, 1984. For several weeks he and his climbing team - Australians Jon Muir, Craig Nottle and Fred From and New Zealanders Kim Logan and Peter Hillary - had been plotting their way up Mount Everest's dangerous West Ridge. Mackenzie was brewing tea in his tent on a metre-wide ledge at 7800 metres when Nottle and From lost their footing and disappeared down the Hornbein Couloir into Tibet. Both died. The team immediately abandoned the climb and returned home, shattered.




László Mécs: The technical leader of the successful Mount Everest (2001.) and K2 (2005.) expeditions, summited Broad Peak (2000) and Gasherbrum II (2003). He is a mountain climbing instructor.



Pakistan 2006 latest additions

(K2Climb.net) Saltoro Summits has submitted a new update of the official list of teams who have applied for climbing permits on Pakistan's peaks this summer.



The Ethics of Mountaineering, Brought Low

Maurice Isserman, a professor of history at Hamilton College, is writing a history of Himalayan mountaineering with Stewart Weaver, a professor of history at the University of Rochester, to be published next year by Yale University Press. Professor Isserman will give a speech titled Overview of the Golden Age of Himalayan Mountaineering (1950-1964) at the "Night of the First Ascent" on June 9, 2007 in Salzburg, Austria.



Kazakhs Urubko and Samoilov SUMMIT Manaslu

(MountEverest.net) Kazakh climbers Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov summited Manaslu today at 11:45 am (Nepal time), according to Russian Climb. They are currently resting in a tent pitched at 7450m, and plan to descend to BC tomorrow.



Year of Broad Peak – 2007

2007 is to be the Year of Broad Peak – 5 pm, June 9 2007 will be exactly 50 years after the Austrian team of four led by Markus Schmuck stood on Broad Peak’s virgin summit. Austrian Gerfried Göschl is to embark on an expedition in honour of the '57 Pioneers and an enormous Broad Peak party is being planned in the heart of the Austrian Alps.



Karakorum 2006 teams update: Wielicki and Odintsov are back

(K2Climb.net) Some familiar names are popping up on the ever growing list of climbers heading for Pakistan’s peaks this summer - and it looks like it's going to be an exciting season. The latest to sign up have been Polish living legend Krzysztof Wielicki, and Russian Alexander Odintsov, leader of the Russian Big Wall Routes project.



“The Night of the First Ascent”

“The Night of the First Ascent” - Broad Peak summiteers' club calling to huge anniversary bash (K2Climb.net) 2007 will be the Year of Broad Peak - significantly the month of June, exactly 50 years after an Austrian team led by Markus Schmuck nailed the mountain’s first ascent. Austrian Gerfried Göschl will launch an expedition in the footsteps of the '57 Pioneers (check previous story in the links section) and a major Broad Peak party is now prepared in the heart of the Austrian Alps.



One step beyond

Jean-Christophe Lafaille was the most gifted mountaineer of his generation. Small, strong and fearless, he ascended the world's highest peaks without oxygen or back-up; climbing alone because no one else could match his supernatural speed. Then, three months ago, with the 8,000m pinnacle of Makalu in his sights, he vanished. Jason Burke his final steps



Gerfried Göschl preparing for Broad Peak + K2 double-header

“In 2007 I’ll lead a large Austrian expedition on Broad Peak (8047m) to celebrate the 50th anniversary of its first climb,” Gerfried told ExplorersWeb.



Piotr Pustelnik & Himalayan Trilogy team

Only Annapurna and Broad Peak have kept Pustelnik from achieving the 14 8000ers. Piotr is back this year for both of them. After climbing Cho Oyu to acclimatize, he will attempt the Polish route on Annapurna's East ridge. In early summer they will travel to Pakistan, aiming for a new route on Broad Peak.



Internet meeting room for Broad Peak's friends

(K2Climb.net) Planning on giving Broad Peak a try some day? Have you already been there and want to share your experience with other climbers? Would you like to know more on the peak’s history or get new facts or summit logs? Then check BroadPeak.org, a website done in the heart of Austrian Alps, and exclusively dedicated to the Pakistan 8000er.



Everest 2006: South Korea to bring down trash and bodies

South Korean Han Wang-Yong, finished his quest to summit all the 14 8000ers on Earth when he reached the top of Broad Peak in summer, 2003. He was the 11th climber to complete the challenge. First he climbed them all. Now he is coming back - to clean them. Han Wang-Yong, launched a campaign in 2003 to clean the base of the mountains which brought him fame and glory.



Summer 2006 Broad Peak expeditions

Updated: March 2, 2006 Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes Alert: 50% concession in royalty fee continues into 2006. The status of 6500m peaks as trekking peaks (without royalty fee) will also remain applicable during the current season. In addition, Pakistan Government has decided that only 10% royalty will be taken for mountains situated in Chitral, Gilgit and Ghizar. Source: Explorersweb.com / SaltoroSummits



Austrian Styrian Help for Pakistan

My father Rainer and my brother Sieghard have been in Besham for some week to coordinate our help for the earthquakevictims in Pakistan. Up to now be send 117 400 Euro (around 141 000 USD) to the Pakistan.



More climbing teams bound for Pakistan

(K2Climb.net) More and more teams are adding their names to the list of permit seekers looking to climb Pakistani peaks this summer according to the country's Ministry of Tourism. The list has been forwarded to ExWeb by Saltoro Summits.



Everest Peace Project: Still room for a Pakistani lady

(MountEverest.net) What would happen if you rope together a Palestinian Muslim and an Israeli Jew on the slopes of Everest? According to Lance Trumbull – they’ll work as a team and put their life in each other’s hands.



Andrew Lock: Anybody up for Makalu?

(Mounteverest.net) Australian Andrew Lock will be climbing with Ralf Dujmovits and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on Kangchenjunga this spring. The trio will most likely be joined by Hirotaka Takeuchi and Veikka Gustafsson; together they will attempt the peak from its South side.



Katia Lafaille: Thank you Ed and Veikka

(Mounteverest.net) Jean-Christophe Lafaille's wife Katia is back in France. After an emotional farewell over Makalu's slopes, Katia has announced that she will keep Jean-Christophe's website up as a tribute to her husband's memory.



And the winner is...House and Anderson bag Piolet d'Or

The American climb took six days up and two days to descend, in alpine style. Vince and Steve summited Nanga Parbat Rupal wall September 6, 2005. The summit day lasted 24 hours, and the descent was to the beat of drums of local villagers below.



French mountaineer missing in Nepal

A team backing missing French mountaineer Jean-Christophe Lafaille making a solo climb of Nepal's Mount Makalu said it was worried about his silence since the start of a summit attempt last week.(AFP/File) KATHMANDU, Feb. 7 (Xinhuanet) -- Renowned French mountaineer Jean Christophe Lafaille has been missing for the last 11 days in course of climbing Mt. Makalu in eastern Nepal, state-run Radio Nepal reported here Tuesday.



Jean-Christophe Lafaille Winter Makalu: A message from Katia

A message from Katia Lafaille Wednesday February 1st 2006, 9:00



Ace French climber missing in the Himalayas

By Sudeshna Sarkar, Kathmandu: An ace French climber, who was attempting a record on Mt Makalu, the fifth highest peak in the world straddling Nepal's border with Tibet, has gone missing since last week.



Pakistan 2006 expedition list

Steve House rejected, Nanga crowded, Edurne for Broad Peak, teams on the Bride and Ogre



The Piolet d´Or 2006

Awarded by French Montagnes Magazine according to the decision of an international jury, its importance makes the Piolet d’Or (The Golden Ice Axe) something like the Oscars of Alpinism.



Simone Moro: From 8A to 8000+

Simone Moro has summited Mount Everest (twice), Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma (winter), Lhotse (twice) and 5 peaks over 7000 meters. He has accomplished the first winter climb of Marble Wall 6400m (Tien Shan), a 24-hour climb on Fitz Roy’s West Face (Patagonia), and many other climbs around the world.



Piolet d'Or Nominees Announced

Piolet d'Or Nominees Announced Who Will Win the Golden Axe? by OutdoorNewsWire.com Staff January 4th, 2006



Ralf and Gerlinde’s wish for 2006: Kangchenjunga

Ralf and Gerlinde’s wish for 2006: The summit of Kangchenjunga!



Denis Urubko and the Art of Climbing

"It felt like an empty world, with only two climbers in it" On July 25th, 2005, Kazakhs Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov completed a new route on Broad Peak’s SW face in alpine style. No one else has officially reached the real summit of BP this year.



Austrian help for Pakistan by Gerfried Göschl



Pakistan ‘royalty cuts’ continue

Good news for mountaineers! The Pakistani Tourism Ministry has decided to continue its 50-percent relaxation in royalty for mountaineers intended to scale above 6,500 metre high peaks.



Pakistan climbing: The 2006 early birds expedition list

(K2Climb.net) Pakistan's Ministry of Tourism has just published a first draft of climbing expeditions in 2006. Saltoro Summits forwarded the list - which happens to be very short: Only three teams have signed up yet. However, a large number of additions are expected in the upcoming weeks.



Broad Peak 1957: Austrian First Ascent

In 1957, a team of four Austrians: Marcus Schmuck, Hermann Buhl, Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger made an ascent of Broad peak. This climb was remarkable for a number of reasons, mostly to do with style: It was without oxygen They had no porters on the mountain, carrying everything themselves All four team members summited (a first for an 8,000 metre peak)



Broad Peak SW face debrief: The Kazakhs' new route, another

(K2Climb.net) Names of the nominees for the Piolet d’Or should be released any day now. Among the most likely to be nominated are Kazahks Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov, who together completed a new route on Broad Peak earlier this year.



Pakistan’s Quake disaster – we need your help

85,000 are dead, 65,000 are injured, and some 500,000 still have no shelter. FTA Principal Dave Hancock has instigated an aid drive to help send quality tents and winter gear to the quake victims in Pakistan. We are on target to send 4000 units from Australia alone but still need your help. Please click here for info on how you can donate used tents and warm clothing to the effort if you live in the USA, Australia or the UK. FTA Quake Help



Denis Urubko

Denis Urubko, #259 and #268 on Broad Peak 8.047m main summit sent us his summit shot from his spectacular new Southwest Face route that he opened together with his friend Serguey Samoilov on 25. 07. 2005 . It has been Denis' 2nd ascent to the main summit. His first climb via the standard Austrian route was on 18. 07. 2003.



Serguey Samoilov

Serguey Samoilov, #267 on Broad Peak 8.047m main summit sent us his summit shot from his spectacular new Southwest Face route that he opened together with his friend and climbing partner Denis Urubko on 25. 07. 2005.



Simone Moro

Simone Moro, #243 on Broad Peak 8.047m main summit sent us his summit shot dated 15. 04. 2003



Cuts in royalty to boost mountaineering

ISLAMABAD: The Tourism Ministry has decided to continue with its 50-percent relaxation in royalty for mountaineers intended to scale above 6,500 meter high peaks. Daily Times Sunday, November 20, 2005



Broad Peak – K2 WorldClimb 2006

Largest Commercial Expedition to K2 in History November 15, 2005 Perth, Australia, Nov. 15, 2005 – Australian-based Field Touring (FTA) will be making history next year with the first large-scale commercial expedition on K2. They have already signed up 15 climbers for the climb.



Broad Peak Club: 268 Ascents

After the 2005 climbing season, our database counts 267 ascents to the Main Summit (8047m) and the first ascent to the North Peak by Renato Casarotto in 1983 making a total of 268 entries. See the names and dates in Broad Peak Club



Broad Peak 1957: Austrian First Ascent

In 1957, a team of four Austrians: Marcus Schmuck, Herman Buhl, Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger made an ascent of Broad peak. This climb was remarkable for a number of reasons, mostly to do with style: It was without oxygen They had no porters on the mountain, carrying everything themselves All four team members summited (a first for an 8,000 metre peak) By reaching the summit, Herman Buhl became the first person to make 2 first ascents of an 8,000er



Sale, Richard (2004). Broad Peak. Hildersley: Carreg Ltd.

As a preamble to this review, the reader is recommended to read the essay on Broad Peak: Austrian First Ascent. This is an account of the 1957 Austrian expedition that made the first ascent of Broad Peak. The expedition, made up of made up of Marcus Schmuck, Hermann Buhl [1, 2], Fritz Wintersteller, and Kurt Diemberger, was quite significant since it was the first 8,000 metre peak to be climbed without the aid of porters on the mountain - the climbing team did all of their own carries. Furthermore, they did so without the aid of supplemental oxygen. It was also the first time that an 8,000 metre peak where the whole team made the summit on the same day. While the accomplishments of the expedition were outstanding, there was also a down side. First, there were interpersonal problems amongst the team. Second, this was the expedition on which Hermann Buhl lost his life. One of the strongest aspects of this book is that it is the first book in English (or any other language) to draw on all three diaries kept by team members, (Buhl, Schmuck and Wintersteller). It also draws on interviews with Schmuck, Wintersteller, and the liaison officer, Qader Saeed. As well, Sale makes use of the book that Schmuck published after the expedition (which has only been published in German).



Climber’s Clean Mountain Campaign

Han, who describes the Himalayas as a minefield of death, climbed Himalayan mountains five more times after having conquered all 14 peaks. He also started the “Clean Mountain” campaign of cleaning garbage that climbers littered during climbing.



The 1957 Broad Peak Expedition Controversy

At breakfast I sat down next to Qader Saeed an articulate ex-Pakistani army officer who, at age 24 had been the liaison officer for Broad Peak trip, Fritz Wintersteller, who made the first ascent of Broad Peak, the sons of Marcus Schmuck, who was the expedition leader and Fritz’s partner on the climb, and Richard Sale who had written a book and presented a talk yesterday about the climb. They told me in great detail their interesting and well documented story about that climb which is recounted on their website at www.broadpeak.org




Friday, November 4, 1:30 - 2:40 p.m. Max Bell Auditorium Richard Sale — Broad Peak The first ascent of Broad Peak in 1957 was a landmark achievement. Four Austrians — Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl — carried their own equipment and dispensed with bottled oxygen, bringing the climbing ethos of the Alps to the great ranges. The expedition also resulted in the death of Buhl, at that time the world’s most famous climber.



Banff book festival highlights mountain literature

BANFF, Alta. (CP) - The 12th annual Banff Mountain Book Festival will include readings and book signings by authors, and a book fair featuring new titles in mountain literature.



Cleaning up Baltoro’s base camps – including K2, Broad Peak

The Alpine Club of Pakistan has launched a cleaning operation to retrieve garbage from base camps along the Baltoro glacier – the most visited in the Karakorum. The Baltoro trek is the most popular walking route in the country, and also K2, Broad Peak and Gasherbrums’ base camps are near the Baltoro.



Marcus Schmuck

Fearless mountaineer who redeemed Austria's reputation for the sport Ed Douglas Saturday September 10, 2005 The Guardian



High altitude theft in Pakistan - Alpine Club of Pakistan

"The Alpine Club of Pakistan has taken a serious note of theft incidents which occurred on K-2 and Broad Peak recently and has decided to set up an Inquiry Committee under the Chairmanship of renowned Pakistani mountaineer Col Sher Khan to investigate into the allegations, identify the culprits and recommend suitable remedial measures for the avoidance of such like incidents in the future.," they stated in a press release.



Marcus Schmuck

Marcus Schmuck, who died on August 21 aged 80, led the 1957 expedition to Broad Peak in the Karakoram; at 8,047 metres, the world's twelfth highest mountain; the expedition was revolutionary at the time and set the standard for future advances in mountaineering on the highest peaks.



Marcus Schmuck Struck by Sudden Heart Attack

Today at 15:30, Marcus Schmuck, the leader of the OEAV Karakoram Expedition 1957 and first man to summit Broad Peak 8047m died completely unexpectedly in Salzburg suffering a sudden heart attack.



Broad Peak on the Shortlist for 2005 Prize

The winner of the Boardman Tasker Prize 2005 will be announced on Friday, 7 October.



Boardman Tasker Shortlist 2005

The 2005 entry is as varied as ever in content, ranging from major biography and autobiography through philosophy, thriller, climbing controversy, local hero celebration, expeditioning, mountain rescue and survival, by authors from the United States, Tasmania, Nepal and all corners of the UK. The judges have shortlisted five titles from the fifteen submissions which, in alphabetical order of author, are:



Link to National Geographic

Link to National Geographic



Broad Peak’s result: 2 out of 30

The great July 21 summit push on Broad Peak yielded some wild little epics. This is what I've gathered from talking to a ton of people:



Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 – day 25

Good Morning, this is Piotr Pustelnik from the BC under Broad Peak, Karakorum – Pakistan. Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 Expedition.



Over 10.000 Unique Visitors at Broad Peak 8047m

We count unique visitors at Broad Peak 8047m since the 24th of May 2005. In June we had 3.994 unique visitors, on average 133 per day.



Broad peak South West Face First Climb

Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov (Italian-Kazakh expedition) I want to add, that it's the first absolutely own Denis's Himalaya project. And the first 8000-er for Serguey. This's an excellent present by Den to his own Birthday, which'll be on July, 29. And the result of successful growth in the team with the coach Ervand Iljinsky. Congratulations to Pavel Novikov (The head of Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army), Rinat Khaibullin and all CSKA climbers! And to everyone who helped the expedition and worried for this tremendous duo! - Е.L.




Daytime program FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. This year’s guests include: Richard Sale – Broad Peak



Piotr's Broad Peak: It's over for this time

Piotr's Broad Peak: It's over for this time. None of the expeditions present on Broad Peak have reached higher than the members of Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnieñ 2005 Expedition so far.



International team BP new route: Mario Merelli – No way!

“We couldn’t find a passage through the serac barrier before the wall,” reported Mario Merelli on Saturday, after a reconnaissance trip up to C1 on the new route the expedition had targeted. “It was dangerous, far too dangerous.”



Broad Peak 8047m Newsletter July 2005

Here you can download our Newsletter



Pakistan: The scoop on permits, insurance and safety

Last week, Gerlinde and Gnaro reported problems with their climbing permit, and the Benegas brothers had similar trouble. “Our full first day in Islamabad was full of surprises, related to new regulations and procedures with the rescue insurances,” reported Damian.



American Climbing Legend to Retire at Peak

As he hit the peak of his career as perhaps America\'s most accomplished mountain climber, Ed Viesturs decided to retire.



Broad Peak 2005: Italians + Denis Urubko for a new route!

Definitely, those who expected ‘just another’ Karakorum season are plain wrong. An all-star Italian-Kazakh combo is preparing an expedition to Broad Peak, where they will try to open a new route on the mountain's SE side.



Pakistan Land & People

Pakistan has seven of the 16 tallest peaks in Asia. The statistics are simply baffling: 40 of the world's 50 highest mountains are in Pakistan; in Baltistan over 45 peaks touch or cross the 20,000 foot mark; in Gilgit within a radius of 65 miles, there are over two dozens peaks ranging in height between 18,000 to 26,000 feet.



Broad Peak 8047m Newsletter May 2005

Here you can download our newsletter



Warning for all 2005 Expeditions

"Due unprecedented heavy snowfall in this winter especially around K2/Broad Peak/Nanga Parbat/G1 /G2, the tracks/steepness have changed; and the risk of avalanches (due to loaded-snow) is high as compared to previous years. The coming expedition season may be very hard.



Broad Peak 8047m Conference in Toronto, Canada

On the basis of personal interviews and/or diaries of events from Marcus Schmuck, Hermann Buhl and Fritz Wintersteller, Richard Sale the author of the book "Broad Peak" will give a presentation to the North American climbers in Toronto on May 15, 2005.



New Broad Peak Book Shines Light on First Ascent

One of the most impressive Himalayan ascents of the last century was Austrian party of Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl’s 1957 first ascent of Pakistan’s 8,047 m Broad Peak.



Festival of Mountaineering Literature in Leeds, UK

Richard Sale presents his new book, Broad Peak, published by Carreg Ltd, Ross-on-Wye, 2004 First Edition, ISBN 0 9538631 1 5, 208 pages.



Broad Peak 8047m Kick-off Meeting in Salzburg, Austria

Kick-off Meeting at Fritz Winterstellers home in Salzburg Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller meet in Salzburg to kick-off the making of the offical Internet site of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram expedition 1957.



Chogolisa: The doomed bride of Karakorum

Chogolisa sits right behind the Gasherbrums massif, at the head of the Baltoro Glacier (Pakistan Karakorum). She is also known as the Bride Peak. Or to be exact, the explorer Martin Conway gave the name in 1892 to the second summit point (NE summit, 7,654m). Chogolisa I, the SW point, is only slightly higher (7,665m), and both summits are united by a long, almost flat and very sharp ridge which makes Chogolisa easy to recognize in every picture.



Remembering climbing's unsung hero

Fifty years on, the world knows Everest and the climbers Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. But half a century later does anyone remember Hermann Buhl?