Marcus Schmuck ( April 18, 1925) has initiated and organized the expedition. Due to his unbreakable resolve he obtained the licence to climb Broad Peak. In his later years he successfully organized and lead 74 expeditions to the high mountains around the world. Interview recorded in 1957.

First Ascents:

• 1946 Nördlicher Mandlkopf, Southwest face, V
• 1948 Wildalmkirchl, South traverse, V+
• 1949 Fleischbank, direct East chimney ("Schmuckkamin"), VI   
• Sommerstein, West face, 1. winter ascent
• 1953 Birnhorn, South face, 1. winter ascent
• 1955 Snökuppelen, North face, IV   
• Falkenstein, Southeast ridge, III    
• Westbyfijell,South face, III und Southeast ridge, II
• 1956 Petit Dru, West face, rekord time 1.5 days
• Bischofsmütze direct Nord face, VI+
• 1957 Broad Peak 8047m on June 9   
• Skil Brum 7360m on June 19
• 1959 Hoggar Denachnet 2690m, East ridge
• 1963 Koh i Sayoz 6920m   
• Koh i Shogordok 6855m
• 1965 Darban Zom 7220m    
• Wildalmkirchl, South traverse

• 1982 Musthag Ata 7546m, 3rd ascent, new route